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-- Why should I Purchase
my new inflatable boat from SeaBright Marine?
The simple answer "Quality", "Value",
and "Customer Service".
You may have noticed that there are now several companies
in Canada and in the US that are selling inflatable boats
with what appears to be very attractive pricing. With very
few exceptions these boats are manufactured using Korean or
Chinese PVC.
We are not suggesting that all Asian PVC is poor quality
because that is not true. In fact some of the PVC from Asia
is perfectly acceptable. Our SeaBright inflatable boats (from
2004 to 2007) were built using very good quality Korean PVC.
This particular PVC manufacturing company was specifically
recommended to us in 2004 and our overall warranty return
rate with over 500 inflatable boats sold in that period was
less than two percent. Unfortunately, as of August 2007 that
particular company has stopped manufacturing PVC fabric.
That being said it is a fact that there is a lot of very
poor quality PVC that is also being manufactured in Asia.
We have first hand experience with this. In 2006 we experimentally
purchased a few boats made from another brand of Korean PVC.
The boats looked beautiful when new but by the end of the
first season of use these boats were already showing significant
UV radiation damage from exposure from the sun.
Unfortunately it is impossible to determine the quality of
the PVC fabric in a new boat. It is the "test of time"
that is the true judge.
For 2008 SeaBright Marine was faced with a decision. Do we
attempt to find another Asian PVC manufacturer that produces
quality fabric? Since it really is a guess, we decided not
to take the chance.
So beginning in 2008 we decided to purchase the highest quality
premium PVC fabric available on the planet today. Mehler-Valmex®
PVC is produced by Mehler Texnologies in Germany and is used
by most of the reputable builders of quality PVC inflatable
boats in the world. For legal reasons we are not allowed to
mention the names of these companies but you probably have
a good idea which ones we are referring to.
If you are in the market for a Hypalon boat we have pretty
much the same story to tell. While it is possible to purchase
Hypalon fabric from Taiwan, we opted not to do this. There
are two Hypalon fabrics that are considered to be the best
quality in the world. They are Achilles® Hypalon from
Japan, and Pennel ORCA® Hypalon from France. All of our
Hypalon boats are manufactured using one of these two Hypalon
fabrics..
We honestly believe (and the vast majority of our customers
agree with us) that SeaBright Marine offers the best value
for your dollar in all of Canada. Our inflatable boats are
custom made for us to our own specifications. At the end of
each season we are busy planning enhancements and changes
that we plan to implement in the following season to ensure
that each year our products are just a little bit better,
a little bit more functional, and a little bit higher in quality.
Now that our inflatable boats are being manufactured with
the same fabrics as used by most of the more well known companies
out there we can say with sincerity that the quality is every
bit as good as can be found in any high quality boat in the
market place today. The one large difference is PRICE, and
that is precisely why we sell so many boats.
We listen to our customers comments. When customers ask about
a feature that they would like to see we keep track of those
comments and take them into serious consideration when planning
our next season.
We pride ourselves in exemplary Customer Service and believe
strongly that this is the reason why we now get so many sales
through referral of previous customers. At SeaBright Marine
we believe in "the good old days" when good customer
service was the norm both at the time of sale and also in
the form of After Sales Support.
Please take a moment to read some of our customers comments
on our "Testimonials" page. We are extremely proud
of this aspect of our business and firmly believe that this
is the single most important reason why we are being successful.
Thank you.
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-- What is the SeaBright
Marine PRICE GUARANTEE
?
We are so confident that we have the best prices in Canada
that we guarantee it !! If you can find a comparable inflatable
boat in Canada that has a better retail price we will beat
that price by 5%
** Comparable inflatable boat means same size, same quality
fabric (Achilles® Hypalon, Pennel ORCA® Hypalon, or
Mehler Valmex® PVC), same hull type (foldable, single
hull RIB, or double hull RIB), same standard equipment, etc
** Retail price means regular retail price and does not include
sale pricing, inventory blow-out pricing, or liquidation pricing.
============================================================
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-- How do I Assemble
my new SeaBright inflatable boat ?
• Your boat has several main inflation valves. Air
can be inserted into these valves with the manual pump that
is supplied with the boat, with an electric pump, or with
a shop vac.
• Make sure the valves are in the “closed”
position before inflating the boat. They are “closed”
when the valve stem is up and “open” when it is
down. If you inflate your boat with the valves “open”
the air will rush out when you disconnect the hose. Valves
can be opened or closed by pushing on the stem and turning
it a quarter turn.
• If your boat is a RIB, simply
install your seats and oars and inflate the tubes to proper
pressure … Done !
• Inflate all of the main chambers and the inflatable
keel (before floor insertion) and then open all of the valves
and let the boat deflate. Don’t push the tubes down
… just let the air escape normally. Make sure the inflatable
keel is nice and flat (not twisted) and that the valve is
in the middle. You may need to pat it down to accomplish this.
This procedure is especially important with a brand new boat
that has just come out of the box because the boat or inflatable
keel may be twisted which will make proper floor installation
difficult.
• Now the boat is in its correct shape to receive the
floor.
• If your boat is equipped with
an Aluminum Floor, install it as follows …..
o Notes:
o No air in tubes while installing floor and stringers.
o No air in inflatable keel while installing floor and stringers.
o Warm environment is easier because the PVC will not be
as stiff
o Boats up
to 12.5 feet in length (SeaBright 380P)
o Install piece number "1" into the nose of the
boat (number up). Make sure that you push it as far forward
as possible and that it is down below the tubes.
o Install piece number "1" into the nose of the
boat (number up). Make sure that you push it as far forward
as possible and that it is down below the tubes.
o Install the rear most piece, making sure it is down below
the tubes and the rear edge is under the wooden “hold
down” strips that are attached to the transom.
o Now keep installing pieces to the front and the rear
until you meet approximately in the middle of the boat.
o In order to get the last tongue into the last groove
you will need to pull them both up about 10 inches. Fit
them together so that you have a raised “tent”
and then push them both down so that the floor is flat.
Although this is possible with one person it is much easier
with 2 people …. One on each side of the boat. As
you are pushing these last 2 pieces down make sure you are
not “pinching” the tubes and that the valve
covers are not trapped beneath the floor.
o At this point use your fingers to make sure the gap between
the tubes and the edge of the aluminum floor is the same
on both sides. If it isn't then it will be difficult to
install the stringers properly.
o Install the stringers onto each side of the floor. They
need to be installed so that they overlap the joints of
the aluminum floor pieces. This is what will provide stability.
If there are 4 stringers with your boat then you need 2
on each side and there should not be any gap between them.
Only the aluminum pieces need support …. Not the wooden
floor piece(s).
o Stringer installation requires that the boat is on a
flat surface. If the surface is not flat or if you are having
difficulty installing the stringers it may help to put a
2 x 4 under the edge of the floor (on its edge). Do one
side at a time. This will flatten the floor on that side
and will also let the tube “fall away” slightly
which will result in a slightly larger gap and easier stringer
installation.
o Take a wet towel and “wet down” the tube
and the stringer. This will decrease friction. Now install
the stringer be “curling” it in. Large flat
side needs to be down.
o HD Boats (SeaBright
420P and SeaBright 500P)
o Unpack the boat and unroll it on a flat surface.
o Inflate all four chambers before installing the floor.
Inflate the inflatable keel. Now open all five valves by
depressing and twisting a quarter turn (4 main Chambers
and the keel) and let the boat deflate. Pat down the inflatable
keel so that it is nice and straight and not twisted. Now
the boat is ready for the floor.
o Take a bucket of water and pour into the boat making
sure the entire hull skin is wet (or use a garden hose).
o Install the front three floor pieces. Install the rear
3 floor pieces. Make sure that these six pieces are all
below the tubes and in their proper position.
o Now install the middle piece. You will need to tent up
two pieces. Now get inside the boat press down make the
floor flat. This is much easier with two people because
if you are not careful at this stage you can pinch the PVC
fabric. As one person watches the edges for pinching the
second person should stand on the tent and bounce up and
down. The tent will slowly go down until floor is flat.
o Now it is time to install the stringers.
o While one person holds up one side of the boat by pulling
up on the ropes place an 8 foot 2 by 4 under the boat. It
should be on its edge and should be about three or four
inches inside the aluminum floor. This will result in the
tubes falling slightly away and the gap where the stringers
need to go will get a bit larger.
o There are four stringers. Two are short and two are long.
Each side of the boat needs a short and a long stringer.
Stringers are designed to hold the floor rigid while going
over waves and it is important that each aluminum floor
joint is supported by at least 10 inches on each side. Before
installing stringers place them on the floor and decide
where you want them.
o Get inside the boat. Then use water to wet down PVC tube
where the Stringer will be installed and also the stringer
itself.
o It is very important that the panels onto which you are
installing a Stringer are completely flat with each other.
The person inside the boat should use his weight to make
sure the 2 panels (or 3) that are receiving the stringer
are all flat.
o While the person outside of the boat pulls of the tube
away to make a the gap larger, the person inside the boat
curls a Stringer into place.
o Now do the same with the second Stringer on that side.
o Remove the 2 by 4 and a place under the boat on the other
side. Follow the steps above to install the two stringers
on that side.
• If your boat is equipped with
a High Pressure Airdeck Floor, install it as follows …..
o Place the deflated airdeck floor in the boat with the
floorboard underneath. The floorboard is in a sleeve and
its primary purpose is to keep the floor flat when the keel
is inflated. The easiest way to install the airdeck is to
press the floorboard down under the 2 tubes at the very
rear of the boat because this is where the boat is the widest.
Now get into the boat and gently pull the floor forward
making sure that the keel board stays securely under the
2 tubes. Do not apply great force. If the floor will not
move forward then inspect it to see where the "bind"
is. After you install the floor 2 or 3 times it will be
easy. When you can see the inflatable keel valve through
the "hole" at the front of the floor then you
have pulled it forward far enough. The rear of the floor
should now be almost touching the transom. Now walk around
the boat tucking the floor down underneath the tubes.
o It is time to inflate your airdeck floor. You want the
floor to be hard enough so that you can walk on it without
sinking in very much. Don’t be afraid to put lots
of air into it. A good indication that it is inflated properly
is when it becomes difficult to push down on the plunger
handle of your pump.
• If you want the seats installed, install them now.
*Note* It is not necessary to install the seats if you prefer
to run without them.
• Now you can inflate the main tubes. They should be
fairly hard to the touch, and you should be able to sit on
them without sinking into them more than an inch. **NOTE**
Inflate the main compartments in a 2 or 3 step sequence. If
you fully inflate one main compartment when the others are
empty you may damage the internal bulkheads that separate
the compartments.
• Finally it is time to inflate the keel. The valve
should be clearly visible and should be pretty much in the
middle of the hole in the front of the floor. The boat will
rise as you inflate the keel. The keel should be harder than
the tubes. A good indication that it is hard enough will be
when the pump handle is beginning to be difficult to push
down.
• Install the oars, put in the valve protectors, and
you are ready for a day on the water. Enjoy!
****Assembly Notes****
• The valves should be in their "closed"
position prior to inflation. They are closed when they are
popped up. If you push the valve down and give it a quarter
turn it will stay down in the "open" position. Do
this when you wish to deflate the boat. If you inflate the
boat with the valve in the "open" position the air
will rapidly escape as soon as you remove the pump.
• It is not recommended that you use a compressor to
pump up your boat. Compressors are designed for very high
pressures and you could easily damage the boat.
• If you have access to electricity one of the easiest
and quickest ways to inflate (or deflate) your boat is with
a "shop vac". Give it a try. It really works great.
You will need to have the valve down in the "open"
position to use a shop vac. Be ready to very quickly pop the
valve back up into the "closed" position when you
pull the shop vac nozzle away to prevent the air from escaping.
• If your boat isn’t “planing” properly
or seems to be too “flexible” when under power
it is probably under inflated. If your boat is equipped with
a High Pressure Airdeck Floor and/or an inflatable keel, they
should be fairly hard, and the tubes should be hard enough
that you can sit on them without depressing them more than
an inch..
• If your boat is equipped with an Aluminum Floor,
It is highly advisable to assemble your aluminum sectional
floor for the first time outside the boat in order to learn
how it all goes together. After you are familiar with how
the floor pieces and stringers all fit together it will be
much easier to assemble it properly when doing it inside the
boat.
Recommended Pressures:
Main Tubes: .........................................
3.5 psi
Inflatable Keel: ....................................
6 psi
High Pressure Airdeck Floor: ........... 8 psi
What is the Black Valve ?
The black valve that is located in the front chamber (2 front
chambers in the SeaBright 420P and the SeaBright 500P) is
a high pressure safety release valve that will release some
air if the boat becomes over pressurized, thereby ensuring
that the seams do not get damaged. It is automatic and there
is nothing you need to do to this valve.
What if a Valve is Leaking ?
You may notice that after a day or 2 your new boat will have
1 or more chambers that have gone a bit soft.
This almost always because the inflation valve (or the black
high pressure safety release valve) was not screwed in tightly
enough when the boat was assembled.
To test the valve simply put a bit of soapy water on the
valve. If bubbles are forming around the outside edge of the
valve then it needs to be tightened. It is sometimes easier
to put the boat up on its side so you can apply the soapy
water directly down onto the valve.
In your orange Repair Kit you will find a black plastic valve
wrench that is used to tighten the valve by turning it a bit
clockwise. Turn until bubbles stop forming. Please note that
this tool is only plastic and can break if too much pressure
is applied.
If it is the black high pressure safety release valve that
is leaking around the outside edge you will need to use a
pair of adjustable pliers to carefully grab the edge and turn
clockwise.
Note: If bubbles are coming from the middle
of the valve (not around the outside edge) then it is a different
issue and you will need to call us to discuss the solution.
Note: It is completely normal for any inflatable
boat to lose some pressure over a period of time. If you notice
this happening over several weeks or months (or over the Winter)
please simply add some air.
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-- How do I Disassemble
my new SeaBright inflatable boat ?
- Your boat has several separate air chambers and valves.
First of all open all of valves by depressing them and turning
a quarter turn.
- If your boat is a RIB, deflate the pontoons using
a vacuum cleaner or a 12-volt electric pump. Leave a very
small amount of air in each chamber will ensure that the
fabric is relaxed and not too severely scrunched. Close
the valves and install the valve protector caps. **Hint**
A shop vac does an excellent job. You are finished and can
disregard the remainder of this section.
- If your boat is a Foldable Inflatable Boat, use
a vacuum cleaner or a 12-volt electric pump to deflate the
inflatable keel. Close the valve and install the valve protector
cap. **Hint** A shop vac does an excellent job.
- If your boat is equipped with an Aluminum Floor,
it is now time to remove it. Remove the “stringers”
from either edge first. Now, lift the floor about 10 inches
at the rear most seam (between the last and second last
floor pieces). Carefully lift the pieces out and place them
in their carrying case.
- If your boat is equipped with a High Pressure Airdeck
Floor, remove the air from it and install the valve
protector cap. It is not necessary to remove the floor from
the boat unless you wish to clean the boat at this time.
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- Next, deflate the front section of the boat. As it is
deflating pull up on the bow ropes. This will make it easier
to fold later. Close the valve.
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- Deflate the main pontoons. As they are deflating pull
up on the side ropes so that the boat will fold in properly.
You want the pontoons to fold in so the entire package is
not wider than the transom. It is a bit tricky the first
couple of times. If the pontoons are not folding in properly
then put a bit of air back into them and repeat the deflation
procedure until you achieve the desired result.
- Now open all main valves to let a small amount of air
in. Leaving a very small amount of air in each chamber will
ensure that the fabric is relaxed and not too severely scrunched.
Leave the valves open for the remainder of the process.
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- Fold the pontoons in so that they are laying flat and
are no wider that the transom.
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- Begin rolling up the boat from the transom.
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- Fold the nose of the boat in.
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- Finish rolling up the boat.
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- Put the boat and its accessories into the carrying case.
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****Disassembly Notes****
- The valves should be in their "open" position
for disassembly. They are open when they are in the “down”
position. They can be alternately placed in their up (closed)
and down (open) positions by pushing them down and turning
one quarter turn.
- Make sure that each chamber in your boat has a very small
amount of air in it to prevent severe “scrunching”
of the fabric so that damage doesn’t occur while your
boat is being stored.
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-- High
Pressure Airdeck Floor Vs.
Sectional Aluminum Floor
for my Foldable inflatable boat - Which should I choose ?
SeaBright Foldable inflatable boats are available with either
a high pressure Airdeck floor or a sectional aluminum floor.
**Note **
- Boats ranging from the 7.5 foot SeaBright 230 to the 12.5
foot SeaBright 380 are available with either floor.
- The 13.8 foot SeaBright 420 and larger models are only
availaible with the sectional aluminum floor.
High Pressure Airdeck Floor - Characteristics
• one piece inflatable floor
• lighter (between 15 and 25 pounds lighter than same
boat with aluminum floor)
• easier to assemble than aluminum floor. simply install,
tuck in, and inflate
• more comfortable to sit or kneel on than aluminum
floor
• very stable, stiff platform .... only slightly less
stiff than aluminum floor
• highly recommended for all models up to (and including)
the 8.9 foot SeaBright 270
Sectional Aluminum Floor - Characteristics
• the triangular “bow” piece is marine
grade plywood with a grey epoxy coating. The main rectangular
pieces are non-skid aluminum
• pieces fit together “tongue and groove”
style with aluminum stringers running down each edge for rigidity
• heavier (between 15 and 25 pounds heavier than same
boat with high pressure airdeck floor)
• makes the boat a bit stiffer and less flexible (This
only noticeable in boats larger than the 8.9 foot SeaBright
270, and when you wish to run at higher speeds while “planeing”
with a larger outboard engine.)
• highly recommended for all models larger than the
8.9 foot SeaBright 270, especially if you wish to "plane"
your boat at higher speeds.
Our Recommendations ......
• High Pressure Airdeck:
- if your boat is not larger than the SeaBright 270.
- if your boat is larger than the SeaBright 270 but will only
be rowed or used with an engine that is too small to “plane”
the boat.
- If you are concerned about overall boat weight.
• Aluminum Floor:
- if your boat is larger than the SeaBright 270 and you wish
to operate it at higher “planeing” speeds.
- if you have a large dog whose claws may puncture the high
pressure airdeck floor.
- if you will regularly have sharp objects on the floor of
the boat.
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Our
2021
Warranty
*** Please Note ***
This warranty is valid only for
Sales since Jan 1, 2021
For warranty information related
to boats purchased from 2004 to 2020 please contact us for
details.
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-- What
is the Warranty on my new
SeaBright inflatable boat ?
SeaBright
Marine 2021 / 22 Warranty
• This warranty pertains only to new
SeaBright Boats that are purchased since Jan 1st, 2020.
If your boat was purchased prior to this please inquire
for warranty details for your boat.
• SeaBright Marine Ltd. warrant that
each new SeaBright inflatable boat and accessories attached
thereto (hereafter referred to as “Product”)
will be free from defects in workmanship. We also warrant
that an acceptable grade of materials has been used in the
construction of the product as to cause the product and
all associated components of the product to perform to expected
and reasonable service levels during the warranty period.
• Warranty is for original owner only
and is not transferrable.
• This warranty shall remain in effect
as described below.
• Personal Use
- Tube Fabric ( PVC or Hypalon) is covered by a 7 year warranty
against delaminating, cracking, rot, and UV radiation damage.
Years 6 and 7 will be pro-rated based upon current value
of the boat.
------NOTE: This warranty applies to boats
sold within Canada. Boats sold outside of Canada have a
fabric warranty of 5 Years, with Years 4 and 5 pro-rated
based upon current value of the boat.
------NOTE: Delaminated is determined to
have occurred when the outer coating separates from the
fabric base or the fabric loses its structural strength
or if air leakage occurs through the fabric.
------NOTE: UV radiation damage is determined
to have occurred when fabric has discoloured and become
sticky to the touch.
------NOTE: SeaBright 430P-B Tube Fabric
warranty is 4 Years (Pro-Rated in Year #4)
- Seams are covered against air leakage by a 3 year warranty.
------NOTE: This warranty applies to boats
sold within Canada. Boats sold outside of Canada have a
seam warranty of 2 Years
- Floor Fabric ( PVC high pressure airdeck floor) is covered
by a 2 year warranty against delaminating, cracking, rot,
and UV radiation damage. These conditions are described
above.
- All other product parts that are part of (or attached
to) the boat, including but not limited to components such
as oar locks, oars, lifting handles, transom holders, transoms,
“D” rings, stringers, aluminum floors, fibreglass
hulls, aluminum hulls, valves, etc.
are covered by a 2 year warranty. Gel coat spider cracks
are not covered.
- All products that that are not part of (attached to) the
boat, including but not limited to pumps, boat covers, launch
wheel kits, seat covers, etc. are covered by a 1 year warranty.
• Commercial Use
- Entire warranty is 1 year from date of purchase.
• This warranty does not apply to normal
wear and tear, or to damage caused by.
- Neglect, lack of maintenance, accident, puncture, abnormal
operation or improper assembly.
- Use of accessories or parts not sold by, or ratified by
SeaBright Marine Ltd.
- Use of any cleaner and/or protectant that is not approved
and recommended for use on materials used in the construction
of the product.
- Participating in or preparing for racing or other competitive
activity.
- Alteration or removal of parts.
- Commercial use.
- This warranty does not cover incidental or consequential
costs or expenses such as: haul–out, launch, towing
transport and storage charges, shipping, telephone or rental
charges of any type, inconvenience, or loss of time or income;
or other consequential damages.
- Warranty is Void on the bottom of the boat (the part of
the boat that is in the water) if marine growth (mussels,
barnacles, etc.) is allowed to grow. If the boat will be
in the water for extended periods of time the customer is
advised to apply an approved and recommended product that
is designed to eliminate marine growth.
- All inflatable boats lose some air over time. This is
normal and is not a warranty issue.
• Customer must provide reasonable access
to the product for warranty service by delivering the product
for inspection to SeaBright Marine Ltd or to a dealer authorized
to service the product. SeaBright Marine Ltd. shall then
arrange for inspection and repair, provided such service
is covered under this warranty. Purchaser shall pay for
all related transportation charges and/or any other expenses
associated with that service.
• Our obligation under this Warranty
shall be limited to repairing a defective part, or at our
option, refunding the purchase price or replacing the product
or such part or parts as shall be necessary to remedy any
malfunction resulting from defects in material or workmanship
as covered by this Warranty.
• We reserve the right to improve the design of any
product without assuming any obligation to modify any product
previously manufactured.
• All incidental and consequential damages
are excluded from this warranty. Implied warranties are
limited to the life of this warranty.
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-- What
is a Foldable inflatable
boat ?
A Foldable Inflatable Boat is exactly what
it sounds like ….. foldable. When not in use it can
be disassembled and packed into carrying cases for easy transportation.
The hull of the boat is made from the same fabric that the
tubes are made from.
All SeaBright “foldables” are equipped
with inflatable keels that when inflated stretch the hull
into a nice tight “V” shape to provide tracking
stability when towing, rowing, or when carving around corners
with an outboard engine. The bottom of each tube and the bottom
of the “V” have extra protection to provide extra
durability.
All SeaBright foldables come equipped with either
a high pressure airdeck floor or a sectional aluminum non-skid
floor.
Advantages of a Foldable Inflatable
Boat:
• Easy transportation because it can be folded and stored
in carrying cases.
• Lighter than a RIB
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--
What is
a RIB (Rigid Bottomed) inflatable
boat ?
Rigid Bottomed Inflatable Boats (RIB’s)
have a rigid hull that is usually made from either fibreglass
or aluminum. The inflatable tubes are attached to the hull
around the edges to provide stability and buoyancy.
Since the hull is rigid these boats cannot be folded and
put into carrying cases. They can be made slightly smaller
by deflating the tubes but generally need to be transported
on a trailer.
At SeaBright Marine we offer both Single and Double hulled
RIB’s.
Single Hulled RIB
A single hulled RIB has a single thickness of fibreglass
(or aluminum) shaped into a “V” for trackability.
When you are inside one of these boats you will notice that
the floor is also “V” shaped. Single hulled
RIB’s are extremely popular because of their relative
lightness.
Double Hulled RIB
A double hulled RIB has 2 distinct thicknesses of fibreglass
(or aluminum). On the bottom it has a distinct “V”
shaped fibreglass hull. Inside the boat is a flat floor.
Since there is significantly more fibreglass in a double
hulled RIB these boats are significantly heavier than their
single hulled counterparts.
Advantages of a RIB:
• Very efficient – requires less power to achieve
“plane”.
• Since the hull is rigid there is absolutely no “flex”.
• Floor does not need to be installed when assembling
boat.
============================================================
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-- PVC
Vs. Hypalon
Fabric - What is the difference?
There are 2 main types of fabric that 99% of the inflatable
boats on the planet are made of. They are .... PVC, and Hypalon.
At SeaBright Marine we sell both types of boats so you can
be sure that we have the boat that is right for you. As is
the case with most things there are Pros and Cons to both
....
PVC
Pro--significantly less expensive
then Hypalon
Con-- won't last as long in the direct
sunlight as Hypalon before it starts to break down (if left
unprotected).
Con-- does not tolerate gasoline spills
as well as Hypalon.
Hypalon
Pro-- will last significantly longer
than PVC when exposed to prolonged periods of direct sunlight.
Pro-- will tolerate fuel spills better
than PVC
Con—significantly more expensive
then PVC
There is no doubt that PVC fabric won’t last as long
as Hypalon fabric if the boat will be subjected to prolonged
periods of direct sunlight and no measures have been taken
to protect the PVC fabric from the sun (i.e. boat cover or
UV spray). After a number of years in direct sunlight the
PVC fabric will become sticky. After that it will become crusty
and discoloured. Finally it will crack and begin to leak.
Here are some things to consider............
1) This is not a problem unless your boat
is going to be outside and unprotected all summer, every year.
If you only use the boat occasionally such as on weekends
or while on vacation then it isn't a factor at all. Even if
you leave your boat outside all the time the issue can be
solved by putting a sun/rain cover on your boat when it isn't
in use or by applying a UV protective spray periodically (such
as AeroSpace 303 Protectant). Any inflatable boat dealer (including
us) can sell you a cover that is designed to fit your boat.
If you are willing to take the necessary steps required to
protect your PVC boat then you can take advantage of the significantly
more attractive pricing points that we are able to offer with
our PVC boats.
2) Keep in mind that the 2 most well known
inflatable boats sold in Canada (for legal reasons we cannot
name them here) are PVC boats. Both of these dealers also
offer Hypalon boats but the vast majority of the boats that
they sell are PVC.
3) Hypalon inflatable boats are significantly
more expensive. On average a Hypalon inflatable boat will
cost you 50 to 75 percent more than a PVC inflatable boat
that is comparable in size and equipment options. However,
if the intended use for your boat will involve long periods
of exposure to sunshine and if you are not inclined to cover
or protect the boat when it isn’t in use then perhaps
the added expense associated with a Hypalon boat will make
practical sense for you.
• Please note that as of 2008 all of our PVC boats
are being manufactured with genuine Mehler-Valmex® PVC
from Germany. Mehler-Valmex® PVC is widely regarded
in the industry as being the premium quality PVC fabric
available in the marketplace today, and is the PVC fabric
of choice for most high quality inflatable boat companies.
• Please note that as of 2008 all of our Hypalon boats
are being manufactured with genuine Achilles T10® Hypalon
from Japan or genuine Pennel ORCA® Hypalon from France.
These 2 Hypalon fabrics are widely regarded in the industry
as being the premium quality Hypalon fabrics available in
the marketplace today, and are the Hypalon fabrics of choice
for most high quality inflatable boat companies.
Whether you ultimately choose a PVC inflatable boat or a
Hypalon inflatable boat, you can be sure that SeaBright
Marine Ltd has the boat to serve your needs. We are confident
that after you do your research you will agree with us that
in each case our products represent the best value in Canada.
============================================================
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|
-- How
do I provide Proper Care
for my SeaBright inflatable boat ?
Taking care of your SeaBright inflatable boat is easy.
During the Season:
- Keep your boat clean and free of debris and grime.
- Check the bottom regularly to make sure there is no excessive
build up of marine life.
- UV Radiation is - The Number One Enemy
of PVC Inflatable Boats
- With this in mind, We recommend that you cover your
boat when it will not be in use for extended periods
of time. While we realize that it is not practical to
cover your boat every time you get out of it, if the
boat is not going to be used for several days it is
advisable to cover it.
- Temporary protection from the sun can also be achieved
by applying AeroSpace 303 Protectant® or
Aurora Polyguard®. These products are very
effective but must be re-applied periodically in order
to maintain their effectiveness.
- Sunscreen - from the arms and
legs of your passengers can be harmful to PVC fabric.
- Care should be taken to ensure that sunscreen is washed
off of the boat promptly. Applying Aurora Polyguard®
to your inflatable boat will protect it from damage
due to sunscreen.
- Fuel Spills and Engine Exhaust
- can damage the fabric of your Inflatable Boat.
- Take care to clean up fuel spills promptly if they
ocurr.
- If using a davit system you should position your Inflatable
Boat so that it will not be subjected directly to exhaust
fumes.
End of Season:
- If you have a foldable inflatable boat remove your high
pressure air floor or sectional aluminum floor. You will
need to partially deflate the boat to get the floor out.
- Reinflate the boat without the floor installed.
- Wash your entire boat with warm soapy water or a boat
wash product that is approved for use on the fabric that
your boat is made from (PVC or Hypalon).
- Allow the boat and accessories to dry thoroughly.
- Store your boat in a dry location
- *** Notes***
- It is not necessary to store the boat deflated. If
space is not an issue it is perfectly fine to leave
your boat inflated during off season.
- Your boat should be clean and dry.
- It is not necessary or store your boat in a heated
area.
- Make sure that your boat is not stored "wet",
especially if it will be subjected to freezing conditions
during storage. Freezing and thawing water can damage
the seams of the boat.
*** CAUTION *** Never
use "Armor All®" on your boat
- Never use any product that contains silicone on your inflatable
boat, such as "Armor All®". Applying silicone
to your boat will make it extremely difficult in the future
to apply a patch to your inflatable boat should it ever
need repair. Even years later it will be difficult to successfully
apply a patch.
- Do not use any product on your inflatable boat that is
not approved for use on the fabric that your boat is made
from (PVC or Hypalon). When in doubt check with the product
manufacturer to make sure that the product will not harm
the fabric. Always make sure that the product does not contain
silicone.
============================================================ |
|
-- What
Products are safe for my
SeaBright inflatable boat ?
Here is a list of products that we recommend for use on your
SeaBright Inflatable Boat. None of these products will damage
your boat or inhibit the ability to apply patches to your
boat should it be necessary at a later date.
More information on 303 Aerospace Protectant®
is at http://www.303products.com/
More information on Aurora® products is at http://www.auroramarine.com/
- Good, old fashioned soap and water
- Cleaner
- For regular dirt and grime this is still the best
method, and the most economical
- Aurora Speed Clean®
- Cleaner
- Quickly & Easily Removes Stubborn Dirt, Grime,
Stains, Oxidation & Scuffs From All Inflatable Boat
Surfaces
- Best PVC and Hypalon, and fibreglass cleaner available
on the market
- Easy to Use: Wipe away tough Dirt & Stains with
a Damp Sponge or Brush
- Removes Scuffs, Chalking, Oil, Diesel, Soot, Oxidation,
Stains, Bird Droppings, etc
- Safe for Hypalon, PVC, Fiberglass & Stainless
Steel
- Environment Friendly and Biodegradable
- 303 AeroSpace Protectant®
- Protectant
- UV Inhibitors: Protect Against UV Damage, Chalking and
Fading
- Protects fabric from "color fade"
- Aurora PolyGuard® -
Protectant
- UV Inhibitors: Protect Against UV Damage, Chalking
and Fading
- Protects fabric from "color fade"
- Protects PVC fabric against damage caused by sunscreen
from the arms and legs of your passengers.
- 2 Coats Provides 4-6 Months of Boating Season Protection
- Fast and Easy to Use: Wipe On and Let Dry
- Luxurious Shine
- Protects Against Dirt, Grime, Diesel, Soot, Stains,
Stains Bird Droppings and More
- Made from a Space Age Polymer - Does NOT Contain Silicone
or Wax
- Not Greasy: No Slip Sliding Around - Won't stain clothing
- Aurora Repelin® - Prevent
Marine Growth
- Prevents marine growth (Algae, Barnacles & Zebra
Mussels) on PVC, Hypalon, and Fiberglass
- Easy to Apply - Two Coats Lasts All Season
- Perfectly Clear: No Discoloration of Your Boat
- Hard, Smooth, Flexible Surface: Won't Rub Off When
You Beach Your Boat. - Won't Rub Off on Your Skin
- Reduces Fuel Consumption & Improves Maneuverability
- Environment Safe & Biocide Free
- Wipe On & Wipe Away Haze for a Super Slippery
Protective Barrier
- ** NOTE ** DO NOT Apply
Repelin Directly to PVC or Hypalon - Clean Inflatable
with Speed Clean - Apply 2 coats Poly Guard to all
PVC or Hypalon surfaces &
allow a minimum 24 hours to cure. Failure to follow
this guideline may make it difficult to apply a
repair patch in the future should the need arise.
- Aurora Inflatable Boat Bottom Spray®
- Remove Marine Growth
- Removes Algae, Barnacles & Zebra Mussels from
tubes & RIB's
- Worlds 1st Bottom Cleaner Made for Inflatable Boats
- Spray directly onto marine growth, brush & rinse
away
- A Clean Boat Bottom Equals Better Performance
============================================================ |
|
-- How
do I Repair a leak in my PVC inflatable
boat ?
Small repairs and the addition of small accessories may be
attempted by the owner if factory gluing instructions are
followed closely.
Rips or holes larger than one inch in the air chambers or
within two inches of a seam should be repaired with internal
and external patches by a professional repair technician at
a certified repair facility.
Recommended solvent: MEK
(methyl ethyl ketone). It is often available at paint, hardware
or plumbing stores, sold as a cleaner for PVC pipes or lacquer
thinner. For non-critical bonds you might substitute acetone.
Glue: Your boat came equiped with
a tube of one part PVC glue. This glue will work well for
very small holes (pin holes) but for larger holes or seams
you should use two part PVC glue. Do not use glue that is
not specifically intended for PVC fabric. Hypalon glue will
not bond properly with PVC.
Humidity: Humidity must be less than
70%.
Temperature: Do not glue in direct
sunlight. Temperature should be between 64 and 77 degrees
F.
Preparation:
- Gather rags, glue brush; solvent; timer with second hand
or stop watch; make sure all the old glue is cleaned off;
get your patch cut out, position noted and marked. It always
leaves a neat tidy finish if you tape off the perimeter
of the patch area with masking tape to avoid over glue.
- If using a 2 part glue, mix accelerator and glue thoroughly
either now or while waiting between the solvent wipes below.
Accelerator is toxic; keep off skin. Keep mixed glue covered
(foil or wax paper) when not using. Pot life is about 1
hour. It may still look liquid, but will have lost effectiveness.
Solvent Cleaning: (3 times - to prepare
the fabric for a chemical bond with the glue)
- Scrub both sides (boat and patch or accessory) with MEK
on a rag to clean surface. Be careful not to wipe the MEK
on areas of the boat or patch that will be seen as MEK will
make the fabric sticky and shiny. Use masking tape around
the perimeter to minimize this. Wait 5 minutes after the
first MEK wash. (time it)
- Apply two more solvent wipes with 5 minute waiting time
(timed) between them.
You are preparing the fabric for glue adhesion. Abrading
these PVC fabrics is not recommended or necessary.
Glue Application: (3 thin layers)
- Apply a thin glue layer with stiff brush to both sides.
Aggressively work it into the fabric with the brush. If
it looks too thin, it is probably correct!
- Wait five minutes (timed) If glue still looks wet, wait
longer.
- Repeat the 2 steps above (total of 3 layers with 5 minute
open time between)
- Wait 10 minutes after third layer of glue.
- Join the surfaces during the next 10 minutes. Start from
one edge and slowly lay the patch or accessory down onto
the glued area.
- Press out all air bubbles and wrinkles from the center
to the edges. On deflated boat rub as hard as possible with
smooth tool, e.g. the back of a large tablespoon - force
air out from between boat and patch. Careful not to scratch
the fabric.
- For davits and hard based accessories, deflate boat and
press through from other side to make sure of adhesion.
Wipe off excess glue with solvent.
- If over 10 minutes or if glue has spots of white haze
the glue has picked up moisture and you should try to "reactivate"
it. With a clean rag wet the glue surface with MEK but do
not rub the glue off (one quick swipe). Then assemble immediately.
Press hard. For accessory on an inflated boat you can rub
it down vigorously with a rag. Make sure there is no MEK
on the rag when using it to run down the part or patch.
- Wait at least 48 hours before use.
- Pressure test if you want to be sure. Blow it up to full
pressure. Leave it overnight.
- Go boating!
Never fiddle around with these. Bond strength drops very
rapidly with heat or high humidity. Take your boat indoors.
Don't even think about trying to glue on the dock or near
the water or in direct sunlight. Professionals use a specially
built, climate controlled room, and still don't attempt to
work on a rainy day.
Note (when using a 2 part PVC glue): The
solvents in the glue must evaporate before assembly. When
ready to assemble parts, the glue must not be tacky at all
to the finger. It must not have spots of whitish glaze. If
so, you may have spread the glue too thick, not waited long
enough between coats, or a sudden drop in temperature or gust
of humid air may have occurred. Someone may have opened the
door, or you may have leaned too close and breathed on it.
Plan to stay in the room until finished.
If using small cans ( 1/4 L) mix the entire can with the
dose of accelerator. Inaccurate measurement will weaken the
glue. Once opened the accelerator cannot be kept. Do not try
to save it. The quality of your final bond depends on it.
Apply glue with a paint or glue brush with the bristles cut
short (1/2 to 3/4") so they are stiff. It must be natural
hair (i.e. OK for lacquer); bound in metal not plastic; preferably
with wooden or metal handle. Careful not to get glue on areas
of your boat besides the repair area.
Old glue must be completely removed -- solvent, sandpaper,
scraping, grinding with a Dremel tool. Glue will not stick
to old glue. Clean it off thoroughly. Be careful not to burn
or melt the fabric if using a Dremel tool. Constant motion
with the tool will prevent this problem.
If your boat has ever been protected with ArmorAll® or
another silicone or petroleum based product, you may have
great difficulty getting a bond. Wipe the repair area well
with MEK, follow the gluing instructions closely and hope
for the best.
To find tiny leaks, take floor boards out, inflate boat hard.
Put some liquid detergent in a bucket of water and with rag
or big wash brush, scrub it all over boat. Keep watch for
elusive, tiny bubbles. When you find the first leak, keep
looking. You might as well fix them all at the same time!
Remember, the number one cause of slow leaks is a poorly seated
valve. Unscrew, clean. Make sure little rubber O-rings are
good. They are the cheapest repair possible.
If patching, cut patches 1 to 2 " larger than tear in
each direction and round the corners (a quarter makes a good
template for the edges). Little one inch circles pasted over
a pin hole won't last. Try to get the same fabric used by
the manufacturer for your boat. The inside and outside surface
may be different. If you can't match color, sometimes a cleverly
shaped patch in contrasting color can be made to look like
decoration instead of a Band-Aid. e.g. arrow, lightning bolt,
even a new D ring if in right spot. Professionals often put
one on each side to look like they came with the boat.
Inflate boat to apply accessories. Deflate to patch air leaks,
even if very small. Air pressure will bubble the patch before
glue sets.
BE SAFE
Do Not Smoke! Glues and solvents are flammable. No open flames
(e.g. furnace or pilot light when working in a cellar.)
Use in a well ventilated area. Fumes can be overwhelming.
A carbon filter respirator is recommended. MEK solvent smells,
but is relatively safe. It is recommended that you not use
Toluene - the factories do but it is quite dangerous.
Accelerator (small bottle) is toxic. If spilled on on your
skin WASH IMMEDIATELY with soap and water. If in your eyes,
IMMEDIATELY FLUSH WITH WATER for at least 2 minutes and consult
a physician. (Accelerator is an isocyanate based product.)
Always wear safety gear as recommended by the manufacturer
of glue, solvent, accelerator, etc.
============================================================ |
|
-- How
do I Repair a leak in my Hypalon
inflatable boat ?
Small repairs and the addition of small accessories may be
attempted by the owner if factory gluing instructions are
followed closely.
Rips or holes larger than one inch in the air chambers or
within two inches of a seam should be repaired with internal
and external patches by a professional repair technician at
a certified repair facility.
Recommended solvent: The solvent
used at the factories is called Toluene or Toluol. It is often
available at paint, hardware or plumbing stores as a cleaning
solvent.
You can also use MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). It is often available
at paint, hardware or plumbing stores, sold as a cleaner for
PVC pipes or lacquer thinner. For non-critical bonds you might
substitute acetone.
Glue: Your boat came equipped with
a tube of one part Hypalon glue. You can also use Zodiac #7097
Universal Glue, Avon Adhesive (one or two part), Bostik®
or other Hypalon or rubber glues. Do not use glue that is
not specifically intended for Hypalon fabric. PVC glue will
not bond properly with Hypalon.
Humidity: Humidity must be less
than 70%.
Temperature: Do not glue in direct
sunlight. Temperature should be between 64 and 77 degrees
F.
Preparation:
- Gather rags, glue brush; solvent; timer with second hand
or stop watch; make sure all the old glue is cleaned off;
get your patch cut out, position noted and marked. It always
leaves a neat tidy finish if you tape off the perimeter
of the patch area with masking tape to avoid over glue.
- If using a 2 part glue, mix accelerator and glue thoroughly
either now or while waiting between the solvent wipes below.
Accelerator is toxic; keep off skin. Keep mixed glue covered
(foil or wax paper) when not using. Pot life is about 1
hour. It may still look liquid, but will have lost effectiveness.
*** NOTE *** IN ADDITION: you must abrade/scuff
the fabric to remove any oxidation and to allow the glue to
attain a mechanical bond to the scuffed area. Use 100 grit
sandpaper or a Dremel tool. Do not cut into the threads under
the protective coating. You just need to cut through the surface
to allow the solvents and glue to penetrate. Some accessories
rubber surfaces have been preprocessed and do not need abrading,
rub just the boat fabric. Wipe clean to remove grit and residue.
Solvent Cleaning: (2 times - to clean
the fabric for a strong "mechanical bond" with the
glue)
- Scrub both sides (boat and patch or accessory) with MEK
on a rag to clean surface. Wait 10 minutes after the first
MEK wash. (time it)
- Apply one more solvent wipe with 10 minute waiting time
(timed) between them.
You are cleaning the fabric for glue adhesion.
Glue Application: (2 thin layers
20 minutes apart)
- Apply a thin glue layer with stiff brush to both sides.
Aggressively work it into the fabric with the brush. If
it looks too thin, it is probably correct!
- Wait 20 minutes (timed) If glue still looks wet, wait
longer. Check for no tackiness with knuckle, no adhesive
should stick to your skin. Humidity control while glue is
drying is critical. Keep door closed. Don't breathe on glue
area while inspecting.
- Repeat the 2 steps above (total of 2 layers with 20 minute
open time between)
- Wait 10 minutes after second layer of glue.
- After 10 minutes, join the parts together. Start from
one edge and slowly lay the patch or accessory down onto
the glued area.
- Press out all air bubbles and wrinkles from the center
to the edges. On deflated boat rub as hard as possible with
smooth tool, e.g. the back of a large tablespoon - force
air out from between boat and patch. Careful not to scratch
the fabric.
- For davits and hard based accessories, deflate boat and
press through from other side to make sure of adhesion.
Wipe off excess glue with solvent.
- If over 10 minutes or if glue has spots of white haze
the glue has picked up moisture and you should try to "reactivate"
it. With a clean rag wet the glue surface with MEK but do
not rub the glue off (one quick swipe). Then assemble immediately.
Press hard. For accessory on an inflated boat you can rub
it down vigorously with a rag with MEK on it.
- Wait at least 48 hours before use.
- Pressure test if you want to be sure. Blow it up to full
pressure. Leave it overnight.
- Go boating!
Never fiddle around with these. Bond strength drops very
rapidly with heat or high humidity. Take your boat indoors.
Don't even think about trying to glue on the dock or near
the water or in direct sunlight. Professionals use a specially
built, climate controlled room, and still don't attempt to
work on a rainy day.
Note (when using a 2 part Hypalon glue):
The solvents in the glue must evaporate before assembly. When
ready to assemble parts, the glue must not be tacky at all
to the finger. It must not have spots of whitish glaze. If
so, you may have spread the glue too thick, not waited long
enough between coats, or a sudden drop in temperature or gust
of humid air may have occurred. Someone may have opened the
door, or you may have leaned too close and breathed on it.
Plan to stay in the room until finished.
If using small cans ( 1/4 L) mix the entire can with the
dose of accelerator. Inaccurate measurement will weaken the
glue. Once opened the accelerator cannot be kept. Do not try
to save it. The quality of your final bond depends on it.
Apply glue with a paint or glue brush with the bristles cut
short (1/2 to 3/4") so they are stiff. It must be natural
hair (i.e. OK for lacquer); bound in metal not plastic; preferably
with wooden or metal handle. Careful not to get glue on areas
of your boat besides the repair area.
Old glue must be completely removed -- solvent, sandpaper,
scraping, grinding with a Dremel tool. Glue will not stick
to old glue. Clean it off thoroughly. Be careful not to burn
or melt the fabric if using a Dremel tool. Constant motion
with the tool will prevent this problem.
If your boat has ever been protected with ArmorAll® or
another silicone or petroleum based product, you may have
great difficulty getting a bond. Wipe the repair area well
with MEK, follow the gluing instructions closely and hope
for the best.
Pinhole size leaks in most Hypalonfabric or PVC boats sometimes
may be repaired simply by use of either Seam Seal or Air Seal
liquids. You might be able to avoid a patch on the boat.
To find tiny leaks, take floor boards out, inflate boat hard.
Put some liquid detergent in a bucket of water and with rag
or big wash brush, scrub it all over boat. Keep watch for
elusive, tiny bubbles. When you find the first leak, keep
looking. You might as well fix them all at the same time!
Remember, the number one cause of slow leaks is a poorly seated
valve. Unscrew, clean. Make sure little rubber O-rings are
good. They are the cheapest repair possible.
If patching, cut patches 1 to 2 " larger than tear in
each direction and round the corners (a quarter makes a good
template for the edges). Little one inch circles pasted over
a pin hole won't last. Try to get the same fabric used by
the manufacturer for your boat. The inside and outside surface
may be different. If you can't match color, sometimes a cleverly
shaped patch in contrasting color can be made to look like
decoration instead of a Band-Aid. e.g. arrow, lightning bolt,
even a new D ring if in right spot. Professionals often put
one on each side to look like they came with the boat.
Inflate boat to apply accessories. Deflate to patch air leaks,
even if very small. Air pressure will bubble the patch before
glue sets.
BE SAFE
Do Not Smoke! Glues and solvents are flammable. No open flames
(e.g. furnace or pilot light when working in a cellar.)
Use in a well ventilated area. Fumes can be overwhelming.
A carbon filter respirator is recommended. MEK solvent smells,
but is relatively safe. It is recommended that you not use
Toluene - the factories do but it is quite dangerous.
Accelerator (small bottle) is toxic. If spilled on on your
skin WASH IMMEDIATELY with soap and water. If in your eyes,
IMMEDIATELY FLUSH WITH WATER for at least 2 minutes and consult
a physician. (Accelerator is an isocyanate based product.)
Always wear safety gear as recommended by the manufacturer
of glue, solvent, accelerator, etc.
============================================================
|
|
|