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-- Why should I Purchase
my new inflatable boat from SeaBright Marine?
The simple answer "Quality", "Value",
and "Customer Service".
You may have noticed that there are now several companies
in Canada and in the US that are selling inflatable boats
with what appears to be very attractive pricing. With very
few exceptions these boats are manufactured using Korean or
Chinese PVC.
We are not suggesting that all Asian PVC is poor quality
because that is not true. In fact some of the PVC from Asia
is perfectly acceptable. Our SeaBright inflatable boats (from
2004 to 2007) were built using very good quality Korean PVC.
This particular PVC manufacturing company was specifically
recommended to us in 2004 and our overall warranty return
rate with over 500 inflatable boats sold in that period was
less than two percent. Unfortunately, as of August 2007 that
particular company has stopped manufacturing PVC fabric.
That being said it is a fact that there is a lot of very
poor quality PVC that is also being manufactured in Asia.
We have first hand experience with this. In 2006 we experimentally
purchased a few boats made from another brand of Korean PVC.
The boats looked beautiful when new but by the end of the
first season of use these boats were already showing significant
UV radiation damage from exposure from the sun.
Unfortunately it is impossible to determine the quality of
the PVC fabric in a new boat. It is the "test of time"
that is the true judge.
For 2008 SeaBright Marine was faced with a decision. Do we
attempt to find another Asian PVC manufacturer that produces
quality fabric? Since it really is a guess, we decided not
to take the chance.
So beginning in 2008 we decided to purchase the highest quality
premium PVC fabric available on the planet today. Mehler-Valmex®
PVC is produced by Mehler Texnologies in Germany and is used
by most of the reputable builders of quality PVC inflatable
boats in the world. For legal reasons we are not allowed to
mention the names of these companies but you probably have
a good idea which ones we are referring to.
If you are in the market for a Hypalon boat we have pretty
much the same story to tell. While it is possible to purchase
Hypalon fabric from Taiwan, we opted not to do this. There
are two Hypalon fabrics that are considered to be the best
quality in the world. They are Achilles® Hypalon from
Japan, and Pennel ORCA® Hypalon from France. All of our
Hypalon boats are manufactured using one of these two Hypalon
fabrics..
We honestly believe (and the vast majority of our customers
agree with us) that SeaBright Marine offers the best value
for your dollar in all of Canada. Our inflatable boats are
custom made for us to our own specifications. At the end of
each season we are busy planning enhancements and changes
that we plan to implement in the following season to ensure
that each year our products are just a little bit better,
a little bit more functional, and a little bit higher in quality.
Now that our inflatable boats are being manufactured with
the same fabrics as used by most of the more well known companies
out there we can say with sincerity that the quality is every
bit as good as can be found in any high quality boat in the
market place today. The one large difference is PRICE, and
that is precisely why we sell so many boats.
We listen to our customers comments. When customers ask about
a feature that they would like to see we keep track of those
comments and take them into serious consideration when planning
our next season.
We pride ourselves in exemplary Customer Service and believe
strongly that this is the reason why we now get so many sales
through referral of previous customers. At SeaBright Marine
we believe in "the good old days" when good customer
service was the norm both at the time of sale and also in
the form of After Sales Support.
Please take a moment to read some of our customers comments
on our "Testimonials" page. We are extremely proud
of this aspect of our business and firmly believe that this
is the single most important reason why we are being successful.
Thank you.
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-- What is the SeaBright
Marine PRICE GUARANTEE
?
We are so confident that we have the best prices in Canada
that we guarantee it !! If you can find a comparable inflatable
boat in Canada that has a better retail price we will beat
that price by 5%
And remember that our prices include FREE SHIPPING.
** Comparable inflatable boat means same size, same quality
fabric (Achilles® Hypalon, Pennel ORCA® Hypalon, or
Mehler Valmex® PVC), same hull type (foldable, single
hull RIB, or double hull RIB), same standard equipment, and
shipping included in price.
** Retail price means regular retail price and does not include
sale pricing, inventory blow-out pricing, or liquidation pricing.
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-- How do I Assemble
my new SeaBright inflatable boat ?
- Your boat has several main inflation valves. Use them
to inflate the boat approximately 20%. It should now have
its general shape but should still be very "saggy".
This can be accomplished by using the manual pump that is
supplied with the boat, with a 12 volt electric pump, or
with a shop vac.
- If your boat is a RIB, please skip down to the
section that instructs you to install your seats.
- If your boat is equipped with an Aluminum Floor,
Install it as follows …..
- Install piece number "1" into the nose of
the boat (number up). Make sure that you push it as
far forward as possible. If you are having difficulty
then perhaps there is too much air in the boat.
- Install the remaining pieces in number order except
for the last one (rear most piece).
- Install the last piece. To do this hold the rear
edge of the second last piece up about 10 inches. Fit
the last piece into the groove of the second last piece
and then push them both down so that they "snap"
into place making sure that the rear of the last piece
is resting against the transom and is underneath the
2 small transom strips that are screwed into the lower
transom.
- At this point check at the very rear of the last piece.
The gap between it and the pontoon should be the same
on both sides. If it isn't then pull it back up where
it connects to the second last piece (about 10 inches),
readjust, and snap back down. You need enough room on
each side to be able to install the stringers.
- Install the stringers onto each side of the floor.
They need to be installed so that they overlap the joints
of the floor pieces. This is what will provide stability.
This is tricky because it is a tight fit. It may help
if you put something under the transom to lift the rear
of the boat off the ground by a few inches. If you are
having trouble getting the stringers in, try using a
rag or cloth to apply some soapy water onto the fabric
where the stringers will touch. This will provide a
slippery surface and the stringers may snap into place
easier. Regular soap will not harm the fabric.
- If your boat is equipped with a High Pressure Airdeck
Floor, Install it as follows …..
- Place the deflated airdeck floor in the boat with
the floorboard underneath. The floorboard is in a sleeve
and its primary purpose is to keep the floor flat when
the keel is inflated. The easiest way to install the
airdeck is to press the floorboard down under the 2
tubes at the very rear of the boat because this is where
the boat is the widest. Now get into the boat and gently
pull the floor forward making sure that the keel board
stays securely under the 2 tubes. Do not apply great
force. If the floor will not move forward then inspect
it to see where the "bind" is. After you install
the floor 2 or 3 times it will be easy. When you can
see the inflatable keel valve through the "hole"
at the front of the floor then you have pulled it forward
far enough. The rear of the floor should now be almost
touching the transom. Now walk around the boat tucking
the floor down underneath the tubes.
- It is time to inflate your airdeck floor. You want
the floor to be hard enough so that you can walk on
it without sinking in very much. Don’t be afraid
to put lots of air into it. A good indication that it
is inflated properly is when it becomes difficult to
push down on the plunger handle of your pump.
- If you want the seats installed, install them now. *Note*
It is not necessary to install the seats if you prefer to
run without them.
- Now you can inflate the main tubes the rest of the way.
They should be fairly hard to the touch, and you should
be able to sit on them without sinking into them more than
an inch. . **NOTE** Inflate the main compartments
in a 2 or 3 step sequence. If you fully inflate one main
compartment when the others are empty you may damage the
internal bulkheads that separate the compartments.
- Please disregard this step if your boat is a RIB.
Finally it is time to inflate the keel. The valve should
be clearly visible and should be pretty much in the middle
of the hole in the front of the floor. The boat will rise
as you inflate the keel. The keel should be harder than
the tubes. A good indication that it is hard enough will
be when the pump handle is beginning to be difficult to
push down.
- Install the oars, put in the valve protectors, and you
are ready for a day on the water. Enjoy!
****Assembly Notes****
- The valves should be in their "closed" position
prior to inflation. They are closed when they are popped
up. If you push the valve down and give it a quarter turn
it will stay down in the "open" position. Do this
when you wish to deflate the boat. If you inflate the boat
with the valve in the "open" position the air
will rapidly escape as soon as you remove the pump.
- A 12-volt electric pump will not pump the boat up to proper
pressure. They are designed as a "high volume, low
pressure” pump. Its function is to fill the boat up
to about 90% with virtually no effort. It will be necessary
to "top up" each of the air chambers with the
manual pump.
- It is not recommended that you use a compressor to pump
up your boat. Compressors are designed for very high pressures
and you could easily damage the boat.
- If you have access to electricity one of the easiest and
quickest ways to inflate (or deflate) your boat is with
a "shop vac". Give it a try. It really works great.
You will need to have the valve down in the "open"
position to use a shop vac. Be ready to very quickly pop
the valve back up into the "closed" position when
you pull the shop vac nozzle away to prevent the air from
escaping.
- If your boat isn’t “planing” properly
or seems to be too “flexible” when under power
it is probably under inflated. If your boat is equipped
with a High Pressure Airdeck Floor and/or an inflatable
keel, they should be fairly hard, and the tubes should be
hard enough that you can sit on them without depressing
them more than an inch.
- If your boat is equipped with an Aluminum Floor,
It is highly advisable to assemble your aluminum sectional
floor for the first time outside the boat in order to learn
how it all goes together. After you are familiar with how
the floor pieces and stringers all fit together it will
be much easier to assemble it properly when doing it inside
the boat.
Recommended Pressures:
Please Note: Your manual pump is equipped
with a pressure gauge. This is a new feature and to be perfectly
frank we are not sure yet how accurate the gauge really is.
Please be careful and do not rely entirely upon the gauge
when inflating your boat, the keel, and the airdeck floor.
We have included instructions that will enable you to inflate
your boat "by feel". This method works very well
and most folks prefer it after they have a bit of experience
inflating their boat a few times.
Main Tubes: ........................................
3.0 pounds
Inflatable Keel: ...................................
5.0 pounds
High Pressure Airdeck Floor: .......... 7.0 pounds
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-- How do I Disassemble
my new SeaBright inflatable boat ?
- Your boat has several separate air chambers and valves.
First of all open all of valves by depressing them and turning
a quarter turn.
- If your boat is a RIB, deflate the pontoons using
a vacuum cleaner or a 12-volt electric pump. Leave a very
small amount of air in each chamber will ensure that the
fabric is relaxed and not too severely scrunched. Close
the valves and install the valve protector caps. **Hint**
A shop vac does an excellent job. You are finished and can
disregard the remainder of this section.
- If your boat is a Foldable Inflatable Boat, use
a vacuum cleaner or a 12-volt electric pump to deflate the
inflatable keel. Close the valve and install the valve protector
cap. **Hint** A shop vac does an excellent job.
- If your boat is equipped with an Aluminum Floor,
it is now time to remove it. Remove the “stringers”
from either edge first. Now, lift the floor about 10 inches
at the rear most seam (between the last and second last
floor pieces). Carefully lift the pieces out and place them
in their carrying case.
- If your boat is equipped with a High Pressure Airdeck
Floor, remove the air from it and install the valve
protector cap. It is not necessary to remove the floor from
the boat unless you wish to clean the boat at this time.
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- Next, deflate the front section of the boat. As it is
deflating pull up on the bow ropes. This will make it easier
to fold later. Close the valve.
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- Deflate the main pontoons. As they are deflating pull
up on the side ropes so that the boat will fold in properly.
You want the pontoons to fold in so the entire package is
not wider than the transom. It is a bit tricky the first
couple of times. If the pontoons are not folding in properly
then put a bit of air back into them and repeat the deflation
procedure until you achieve the desired result.
- Now open all main valves to let a small amount of air
in. Leaving a very small amount of air in each chamber will
ensure that the fabric is relaxed and not too severely scrunched.
Leave the valves open for the remainder of the process.
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- Fold the pontoons in so that they are laying flat and
are no wider that the transom.
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- Begin rolling up the boat from the transom.
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- Fold the nose of the boat in.
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- Finish rolling up the boat.
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- Put the boat and its accessories into the carrying case.
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****Disassembly Notes****
- The valves should be in their "open" position
for disassembly. They are open when they are in the “down”
position. They can be alternately placed in their up (closed)
and down (open) positions by pushing them down and turning
one quarter turn.
- Make sure that each chamber in your boat has a very small
amount of air in it to prevent severe “scrunching”
of the fabric so that damage doesn’t occur while your
boat is being stored.
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-- High
Pressure Airdeck Floor Vs.
Sectional Aluminum Floor
for my Foldable inflatable boat - Which should I choose ?
SeaBright Foldable inflatable boats are available with either
a high pressure Airdeck floor or a sectional aluminum floor.
**Note **
- Boats ranging from the 7.5 foot SeaBright 230 to the 10.5
foot SeaBright 320 are available with either floor.
- The 12.5 foot SeaBright 380 and larger models are only
availaible with the sectional aluminum floor.
High Pressure Airdeck Floor - Characteristics
• one piece inflatable floor
• lighter (between 15 and 25 pounds lighter than same
boat with aluminum floor)
• easier to assemble than aluminum floor. simply install,
tuck in, and inflate
• more comfortable to sit or kneel on than aluminum
floor
• very stable, stiff platform .... only slightly less
stiff than aluminum floor
• highly recommended for all models up to (and including)
the 8.9 foot SeaBright 270
Sectional Aluminum Floor - Characteristics
• the triangular “bow” piece is marine
grade plywood with a grey epoxy coating. The main rectangular
pieces are non-skid aluminum
• pieces fit together “tongue and groove”
style with aluminum stringers running down each edge for rigidity
• heavier (between 15 and 25 pounds heavier than same
boat with high pressure airdeck floor)
• makes the boat a bit stiffer and less flexible (This
only noticeable in boats larger than the 8.9 foot SeaBright
270, and when you wish to run at higher speeds while “planeing”
with a larger outboard engine.)
• highly recommended for all models larger than the
8.9 foot SeaBright 270, especially if you wish to "plane"
your boat at higher speeds.
Our Recommendations ......
• High Pressure Airdeck:
- if your boat is not larger than the SeaBright 270.
- if your boat is larger than the SeaBright 270 but will only
be rowed or used with an engine that is too small to “plane”
the boat.
- If you are concerned about overall boat weight.
• Aluminum Floor:
- if your boat is larger than the SeaBright 270 and you wish
to operate it at higher “planeing” speeds.
- if you have a large dog whose claws may puncture the high
pressure airdeck floor.
- if you will regularly have sharp objects on the floor of
the boat.
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| Our
2009 / 2010
Warranty
*** Please Note ***
This warranty is valid only for
2009 and 2010 inventory.
For warranty information related
to boats purchased from 2004 to 2008 please contact us for
details.
|
-- What
is the Warranty on my new
2009 / 2010 SeaBright inflatable boat ?
2009 / 2010
SeaBright Marine Warranty
• SeaBright Marine Ltd. warrant that each new SeaBright
inflatable boat and accessories attached thereto (hereafter
referred to as “Product”) will be free from defects
in workmanship. We also warrant that an acceptable grade of
materials has been used in the construction of the product
as to cause the product and all associated components of the
product to perform to expected and reasonable service levels
during the warranty period.
• This warranty shall remain in effect as described
below.
Tube Fabric ( PVC or Hypalon) is covered
by a 5 year limited warranty against delaminating, cracking,
and rot.
** NOTE: Fabric is determined to have delaminated when the
outer coating separates from the fabric base or the fabric
loses its structural strength or if air leakage occurs through
the fabric.
** NOTE: UV radiation damage is determined to have occurred
when fabric has discoloured and become sticky to the touch.
Floor Fabric ( PVC high pressure airdeck
floor) is covered by a 2 year unlimited warranty against
delaminating, cracking, and rot.
** NOTE: Fabric is determined to have delaminated when the
outer coating separates from the fabric base or the fabric
loses its structural strength or if air leakage occurs through
the fabric.
** NOTE: UV radiation damage is determined to have occurred
when fabric has discoloured and become sticky to the touch.
Seams, and valves are covered against
air leakage by an unlimited 2 year warranty.
All other product parts, including but
not limited to components such as oar locks, oars, lifting
handles, pump, transom holder, transom, “D”
rings, stringers, aluminum floors, and fibreglass hulls
are covered by an unlimited 2 year warranty.
• This warranty applies to defects in material and
workmanship, and also ensures that construction materials
are of adequate quality. It does not apply to normal wear
and tear, or to damage caused by.
Neglect, lack of maintenance, accident, puncture, abnormal
operation or improper assembly.
Use of accessories or parts not sold by, or ratified by
SeaBright Marine Ltd.
Use of any cleaner and/or protectant that is not approved
and recommended for use on materials used in the construction
of the product.
Participating in or preparing for racing or other competitive
activity.
Alteration or removal of parts.
Commercial use.
• This warranty does not cover incidental or consequential
costs or expenses such as: haul–out, launch, towing
transport and storage charges, shipping, telephone or rental
charges of any type, inconvenience, or loss of time or income;
or other consequential damages.
• Customer must provide reasonable access to the product
for warranty service by delivering the product for inspection
to SeaBright Marine Ltd or to a dealer authorized to service
the product. SeaBright Marine Ltd. shall then arrange for
inspection and repair, provided such service is covered under
this warranty. Purchaser shall pay for all related transportation
charges and/or any other expenses associated with that service.
• Our obligation under this Warranty shall be limited
to repairing a defective part, or at our option, refunding
the purchase price or replacing the product or such part or
parts as shall be necessary to remedy any malfunction resulting
from defects in material or workmanship as covered by this
Warranty.
• We reserve the right to improve the design of any
product without assuming any obligation to modify any product
previously manufactured.
• All incidental and consequential damages are excluded
from this warranty. Implied warranties are limited to the
life of this warranty.
• This warranty gives you specific legal rights, and
you may also have other legal rights which vary from country
to country
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-- What
is a Foldable inflatable
boat ?
A Foldable Inflatable Boat is exactly what
it sounds like ….. foldable. When not in use it can
be disassembled and packed into carrying cases for easy transportation.
The hull of the boat is made from the same fabric that the
tubes are made from.
All SeaBright “foldables” are equipped
with inflatable keels that when inflated stretch the hull
into a nice tight “V” shape to provide tracking
stability when towing, rowing, or when carving around corners
with an outboard engine. The bottom of each tube and the bottom
of the “V” have extra protection to provide extra
durability.
All SeaBright foldables come equipped with either
a high pressure airdeck floor or a sectional aluminum non-skid
floor.
Advantages of a Foldable Inflatable
Boat:
• Easy transportation because it can be folded and stored
in carrying cases.
• Lighter than a RIB
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--
What is
a RIB (Rigid Bottomed) inflatable
boat ?
Rigid Bottomed Inflatable Boats (RIB’s)
have a rigid hull that is usually made from either fibreglass
or aluminum. All SeaBright RIB’s have fibreglass hulls.
The inflatable tubes are attached to the hull around the edges
to provide stability and buoyancy.
Since the hull is rigid these boats cannot be folded and
put into carrying cases. They can be made slightly smaller
by deflating the tubes but generally need to be transported
on a trailer.
At SeaBright Marine we offer both Single and Double hulled
RIB’s.
Single Hulled RIB
A single hulled RIB has a single thickness of fibreglass
shaped into a “V” for trackability. When you
are inside one of these boats you will notice that the floor
is also “V” shaped. Single hulled RIB’s
are extremely popular because of their relative lightness.
Double Hulled RIB
A double hulled RIB has 2 distinct thicknesses of fibreglass.
On the bottom it has a distinct “V” shaped fibreglass
hull. Inside the boat is a flat floor. Since there is significantly
more fibreglass in a double hulled RIB these boats are significantly
heavier than their single hulled counterparts.
Advantages of a RIB:
• Very efficient – requires less power to achieve
“plane”.
• Since the hull is rigid there is absolutely no “flex”.
• Floor does not need to be installed when assembling
boat.
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-- PVC
Vs. Hypalon
Fabric - What is the difference?
There are 2 main types of fabric that 99% of the inflatable
boats on the planet are made of. They are .... PVC, and Hypalon.
At SeaBright Marine we sell both types of boats so you can
be sure that we have the boat that is right for you. As is
the case with most things there are Pros and Cons to both
....
PVC
Pro--significantly less expensive
then Hypalon
Con-- won't last as long in the direct
sunlight as Hypalon before it starts to break down (if left
unprotected).
Con-- does not tolerate gasoline spills
as well as Hypalon.
Hypalon
Pro-- will last significantly longer
than PVC when exposed to prolonged periods of direct sunlight.
Pro-- will tolerate fuel spills better
than PVC
Con—significantly more expensive
then PVC
There is no doubt that PVC fabric won’t last as long
as Hypalon fabric if the boat will be subjected to prolonged
periods of direct sunlight and no measures have been taken
to protect the PVC fabric from the sun (i.e. boat cover or
UV spray). After a number of years in direct sunlight the
PVC fabric will become sticky. After that it will become crusty
and discoloured. Finally it will crack and begin to leak.
Here are some things to consider............
1) This is not a problem unless your boat
is going to be outside and unprotected all summer, every year.
If you only use the boat occasionally such as on weekends
or while on vacation then it isn't a factor at all. Even if
you leave your boat outside all the time the issue can be
solved by putting a sun/rain cover on your boat when it isn't
in use or by applying a UV protective spray periodically (such
as AeroSpace 303 Protectant). Any inflatable boat dealer (including
us) can sell you a cover that is designed to fit your boat.
If you are willing to take the necessary steps required to
protect your PVC boat then you can take advantage of the significantly
more attractive pricing points that we are able to offer with
our PVC boats.
2) Keep in mind that the 2 most well known
inflatable boats sold in Canada (for legal reasons we cannot
name them here) are PVC boats. Both of these dealers also
offer Hypalon boats but the vast majority of the boats that
they sell are PVC.
3) Hypalon inflatable boats are significantly
more expensive. On average a Hypalon inflatable boat will
cost you 50 to 75 percent more than a PVC inflatable boat
that is comparable in size and equipment options. However,
if the intended use for your boat will involve long periods
of exposure to sunshine and if you are not inclined to cover
or protect the boat when it isn’t in use then perhaps
the added expense associated with a Hypalon boat will make
practical sense for you.
• Please note that as of 2008 all of our PVC boats
are being manufactured with genuine Mehler-Valmex® PVC
from Germany. Mehler-Valmex® PVC is widely regarded
in the industry as being the premium quality PVC fabric
available in the marketplace today, and is the PVC fabric
of choice for most high quality inflatable boat companies.
• Please note that as of 2008 all of our Hypalon boats
are being manufactured with genuine Achilles T10® Hypalon
from Japan or genuine Pennel ORCA® Hypalon from France.
These 2 Hypalon fabrics are widely regarded in the industry
as being the premium quality Hypalon fabrics available in
the marketplace today, and are the Hypalon fabrics of choice
for most high quality inflatable boat companies.
Whether you ultimately choose a PVC inflatable boat or a
Hypalon inflatable boat, you can be sure that SeaBright
Marine Ltd has the boat to serve your needs. We are confident
that after you do your research you will agree with us that
in each case our products represent the best value in Canada.
============================================================
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-- How
do I provide Proper Care
for my SeaBright inflatable boat ?
Taking care of your SeaBright inflatable boat is easy.
During the Season:
- Keep your boat clean and free of debris and grime.
- Check the bottom regularly to make sure there is no excessive
build up of marine life.
- UV Radiation is - The Number One Enemy
of PVC Inflatable Boats
- With this in mind, We recommend that you cover your
boat when it will not be in use for extended periods
of time. While we realize that it is not practical to
cover your boat every time you get out of it, if the
boat is not going to be used for several days it is
advisable to cover it.
- Temporary protection from the sun can also be achieved
by applying AeroSpace 303 Protectant® or
Aurora Polyguard®. These products are very
effective but must be re-applied periodically in order
to maintain their effectiveness.
- Sunscreen - from the arms and
legs of your passengers can be harmful to PVC fabric.
- Care should be taken to ensure that sunscreen is washed
off of the boat promptly. Applying Aurora Polyguard®
to your inflatable boat will protect it from damage
due to sunscreen.
- Fuel Spills and Engine Exhaust
- can damage the fabric of your Inflatable Boat.
- Take care to clean up fuel spills promptly if they
ocurr.
- If using a davit system you should position your Inflatable
Boat so that it will not be subjected directly to exhaust
fumes.
End of Season:
- If you have a foldable inflatable boat remove your high
pressure air floor or sectional aluminum floor. You will
need to partially deflate the boat to get the floor out.
- Reinflate the boat without the floor installed.
- Wash your entire boat with warm soapy water or a boat
wash product that is approved for use on the fabric that
your boat is made from (PVC or Hypalon).
- Allow the boat and accessories to dry thoroughly.
- Store your boat in a dry location
- *** Notes***
- It is not necessary to store the boat deflated. If
space is not an issue it is perfectly fine to leave
your boat inflated during off season.
- Your boat should be clean and dry.
- It is not necessary or store your boat in a heated
area.
- Make sure that your boat is not stored "wet",
especially if it will be subjected to freezing conditions
during storage. Freezing and thawing water can damage
the seams of the boat.
*** CAUTION *** Never
use "Armor All®" on your boat
- Never use any product that contains silicone on your inflatable
boat, such as "Armor All®". Applying silicone
to your boat will make it extremely difficult in the future
to apply a patch to your inflatable boat should it ever
need repair. Even years later it will be difficult to successfully
apply a patch.
- Do not use any product on your inflatable boat that is
not approved for use on the fabric that your boat is made
from (PVC or Hypalon). When in doubt check with the product
manufacturer to make sure that the product will not harm
the fabric. Always make sure that the product does not contain
silicone.
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-- What
Products are safe for my
SeaBright inflatable boat ?
Here is a list of products that we recommend for use on your
SeaBright Inflatable Boat. None of these products will damage
your boat or inhibit the ability to apply patches to your
boat should it be necessary at a later date.
More information on 303 Aerospace Protectant®
is at http://www.303products.com/
More information on Aurora® products is at http://www.auroramarine.com/
- Good, old fashioned soap and water
- Cleaner
- For regular dirt and grime this is still the best
method, and the most economical
- Aurora Speed Clean®
- Cleaner
- Quickly & Easily Removes Stubborn Dirt, Grime,
Stains, Oxidation & Scuffs From All Inflatable Boat
Surfaces
- Best PVC and Hypalon, and fibreglass cleaner available
on the market
- Easy to Use: Wipe away tough Dirt & Stains with
a Damp Sponge or Brush
- Removes Scuffs, Chalking, Oil, Diesel, Soot, Oxidation,
Stains, Bird Droppings, etc
- Safe for Hypalon, PVC, Fiberglass & Stainless
Steel
- Environment Friendly and Biodegradable
- 303 AeroSpace Protectant®
- Protectant
- UV Inhibitors: Protect Against UV Damage, Chalking and
Fading
- Protects fabric from "color fade"
- Aurora PolyGuard® -
Protectant
- UV Inhibitors: Protect Against UV Damage, Chalking
and Fading
- Protects fabric from "color fade"
- Protects PVC fabric against damage caused by sunscreen
from the arms and legs of your passengers.
- 2 Coats Provides 4-6 Months of Boating Season Protection
- Fast and Easy to Use: Wipe On and Let Dry
- Luxurious Shine
- Protects Against Dirt, Grime, Diesel, Soot, Stains,
Stains Bird Droppings and More
- Made from a Space Age Polymer - Does NOT Contain Silicone
or Wax
- Not Greasy: No Slip Sliding Around - Won't stain clothing
- Aurora Repelin® - Prevent
Marine Growth
- Prevents marine growth (Algae, Barnacles & Zebra
Mussels) on PVC, Hypalon, and Fiberglass
- Easy to Apply - Two Coats Lasts All Season
- Perfectly Clear: No Discoloration of Your Boat
- Hard, Smooth, Flexible Surface: Won't Rub Off When
You Beach Your Boat. - Won't Rub Off on Your Skin
- Reduces Fuel Consumption & Improves Maneuverability
- Environment Safe & Biocide Free
- Wipe On & Wipe Away Haze for a Super Slippery
Protective Barrier
- ** NOTE ** DO NOT Apply
Repelin Directly to PVC or Hypalon - Clean Inflatable
with Speed Clean - Apply 2 coats Poly Guard to all
PVC or Hypalon surfaces &
allow a minimum 24 hours to cure. Failure to follow
this guideline may make it difficult to apply a
repair patch in the future should the need arise.
- Aurora Inflatable Boat Bottom Spray®
- Remove Marine Growth
- Removes Algae, Barnacles & Zebra Mussels from
tubes & RIB's
- Worlds 1st Bottom Cleaner Made for Inflatable Boats
- Spray directly onto marine growth, brush & rinse
away
- A Clean Boat Bottom Equals Better Performance
============================================================ |
| |
-- How
do I Repair a leak in my PVC inflatable
boat ?
Small repairs and the addition of small accessories may be
attempted by the owner if factory gluing instructions are
followed closely.
Rips or holes larger than one inch in the air chambers or
within two inches of a seam should be repaired with internal
and external patches by a professional repair technician at
a certified repair facility.
Recommended solvent: MEK
(methyl ethyl ketone). It is often available at paint, hardware
or plumbing stores, sold as a cleaner for PVC pipes or lacquer
thinner. For non-critical bonds you might substitute acetone.
Glue: Your boat came equiped with
a tube of one part PVC glue. This glue will work well for
very small holes (pin holes) but for larger holes or seams
you should use two part PVC glue. Do not use glue that is
not specifically intended for PVC fabric. Hypalon glue will
not bond properly with PVC.
Humidity: Humidity must be less than
70%.
Temperature: Do not glue in direct
sunlight. Temperature should be between 64 and 77 degrees
F.
Preparation:
- Gather rags, glue brush; solvent; timer with second hand
or stop watch; make sure all the old glue is cleaned off;
get your patch cut out, position noted and marked. It always
leaves a neat tidy finish if you tape off the perimeter
of the patch area with masking tape to avoid over glue.
- If using a 2 part glue, mix accelerator and glue thoroughly
either now or while waiting between the solvent wipes below.
Accelerator is toxic; keep off skin. Keep mixed glue covered
(foil or wax paper) when not using. Pot life is about 1
hour. It may still look liquid, but will have lost effectiveness.
Solvent Cleaning: (3 times - to prepare
the fabric for a chemical bond with the glue)
- Scrub both sides (boat and patch or accessory) with MEK
on a rag to clean surface. Be careful not to wipe the MEK
on areas of the boat or patch that will be seen as MEK will
make the fabric sticky and shiny. Use masking tape around
the perimeter to minimize this. Wait 5 minutes after the
first MEK wash. (time it)
- Apply two more solvent wipes with 5 minute waiting time
(timed) between them.
You are preparing the fabric for glue adhesion. Abrading
these PVC fabrics is not recommended or necessary.
Glue Application: (3 thin layers)
- Apply a thin glue layer with stiff brush to both sides.
Aggressively work it into the fabric with the brush. If
it looks too thin, it is probably correct!
- Wait five minutes (timed) If glue still looks wet, wait
longer.
- Repeat the 2 steps above (total of 3 layers with 5 minute
open time between)
- Wait 10 minutes after third layer of glue.
- Join the surfaces during the next 10 minutes. Start from
one edge and slowly lay the patch or accessory down onto
the glued area.
- Press out all air bubbles and wrinkles from the center
to the edges. On deflated boat rub as hard as possible with
smooth tool, e.g. the back of a large tablespoon - force
air out from between boat and patch. Careful not to scratch
the fabric.
- For davits and hard based accessories, deflate boat and
press through from other side to make sure of adhesion.
Wipe off excess glue with solvent.
- If over 10 minutes or if glue has spots of white haze
the glue has picked up moisture and you should try to "reactivate"
it. With a clean rag wet the glue surface with MEK but do
not rub the glue off (one quick swipe). Then assemble immediately.
Press hard. For accessory on an inflated boat you can rub
it down vigorously with a rag. Make sure there is no MEK
on the rag when using it to run down the part or patch.
- Wait at least 48 hours before use.
- Pressure test if you want to be sure. Blow it up to full
pressure. Leave it overnight.
- Go boating!
Never fiddle around with these. Bond strength drops very
rapidly with heat or high humidity. Take your boat indoors.
Don't even think about trying to glue on the dock or near
the water or in direct sunlight. Professionals use a specially
built, climate controlled room, and still don't attempt to
work on a rainy day.
Note (when using a 2 part PVC glue): The
solvents in the glue must evaporate before assembly. When
ready to assemble parts, the glue must not be tacky at all
to the finger. It must not have spots of whitish glaze. If
so, you may have spread the glue too thick, not waited long
enough between coats, or a sudden drop in temperature or gust
of humid air may have occurred. Someone may have opened the
door, or you may have leaned too close and breathed on it.
Plan to stay in the room until finished.
If using small cans ( 1/4 L) mix the entire can with the
dose of accelerator. Inaccurate measurement will weaken the
glue. Once opened the accelerator cannot be kept. Do not try
to save it. The quality of your final bond depends on it.
Apply glue with a paint or glue brush with the bristles cut
short (1/2 to 3/4") so they are stiff. It must be natural
hair (i.e. OK for lacquer); bound in metal not plastic; preferably
with wooden or metal handle. Careful not to get glue on areas
of your boat besides the repair area.
Old glue must be completely removed -- solvent, sandpaper,
scraping, grinding with a Dremel tool. Glue will not stick
to old glue. Clean it off thoroughly. Be careful not to burn
or melt the fabric if using a Dremel tool. Constant motion
with the tool will prevent this problem.
If your boat has ever been protected with ArmorAll® or
another silicone or petroleum based product, you may have
great difficulty getting a bond. Wipe the repair area well
with MEK, follow the gluing instructions closely and hope
for the best.
To find tiny leaks, take floor boards out, inflate boat hard.
Put some liquid detergent in a bucket of water and with rag
or big wash brush, scrub it all over boat. Keep watch for
elusive, tiny bubbles. When you find the first leak, keep
looking. You might as well fix them all at the same time!
Remember, the number one cause of slow leaks is a poorly seated
valve. Unscrew, clean. Make sure little rubber O-rings are
good. They are the cheapest repair possible.
If patching, cut patches 1 to 2 " larger than tear in
each direction and round the corners (a quarter makes a good
template for the edges). Little one inch circles pasted over
a pin hole won't last. Try to get the same fabric used by
the manufacturer for your boat. The inside and outside surface
may be different. If you can't match color, sometimes a cleverly
shaped patch in contrasting color can be made to look like
decoration instead of a Band-Aid. e.g. arrow, lightning bolt,
even a new D ring if in right spot. Professionals often put
one on each side to look like they came with the boat.
Inflate boat to apply accessories. Deflate to patch air leaks,
even if very small. Air pressure will bubble the patch before
glue sets.
BE SAFE
Do Not Smoke! Glues and solvents are flammable. No open flames
(e.g. furnace or pilot light when working in a cellar.)
Use in a well ventilated area. Fumes can be overwhelming.
A carbon filter respirator is recommended. MEK solvent smells,
but is relatively safe. It is recommended that you not use
Toluene - the factories do but it is quite dangerous.
Accelerator (small bottle) is toxic. If spilled on on your
skin WASH IMMEDIATELY with soap and water. If in your eyes,
IMMEDIATELY FLUSH WITH WATER for at least 2 minutes and consult
a physician. (Accelerator is an isocyanate based product.)
Always wear safety gear as recommended by the manufacturer
of glue, solvent, accelerator, etc.
============================================================ |
| |
-- How
do I Repair a leak in my Hypalon
inflatable boat ?
Small repairs and the addition of small accessories may be
attempted by the owner if factory gluing instructions are
followed closely.
Rips or holes larger than one inch in the air chambers or
within two inches of a seam should be repaired with internal
and external patches by a professional repair technician at
a certified repair facility.
Recommended solvent: The solvent
used at the factories is called Toluene or Toluol. It is often
available at paint, hardware or plumbing stores as a cleaning
solvent.
You can also use MEK (methyl ethyl ketone). It is often available
at paint, hardware or plumbing stores, sold as a cleaner for
PVC pipes or lacquer thinner. For non-critical bonds you might
substitute acetone.
Glue: Your boat came equipped with
a tube of one part Hypalon glue. You can also use Zodiac #7097
Universal Glue, Avon Adhesive (one or two part), Bostik®
or other Hypalon or rubber glues. Do not use glue that is
not specifically intended for Hypalon fabric. PVC glue will
not bond properly with Hypalon.
Humidity: Humidity must be less
than 70%.
Temperature: Do not glue in direct
sunlight. Temperature should be between 64 and 77 degrees
F.
Preparation:
- Gather rags, glue brush; solvent; timer with second hand
or stop watch; make sure all the old glue is cleaned off;
get your patch cut out, position noted and marked. It always
leaves a neat tidy finish if you tape off the perimeter
of the patch area with masking tape to avoid over glue.
- If using a 2 part glue, mix accelerator and glue thoroughly
either now or while waiting between the solvent wipes below.
Accelerator is toxic; keep off skin. Keep mixed glue covered
(foil or wax paper) when not using. Pot life is about 1
hour. It may still look liquid, but will have lost effectiveness.
*** NOTE *** IN ADDITION: you must abrade/scuff
the fabric to remove any oxidation and to allow the glue to
attain a mechanical bond to the scuffed area. Use 100 grit
sandpaper or a Dremel tool. Do not cut into the threads under
the protective coating. You just need to cut through the surface
to allow the solvents and glue to penetrate. Some accessories
rubber surfaces have been preprocessed and do not need abrading,
rub just the boat fabric. Wipe clean to remove grit and residue.
Solvent Cleaning: (2 times - to clean
the fabric for a strong "mechanical bond" with the
glue)
- Scrub both sides (boat and patch or accessory) with MEK
on a rag to clean surface. Wait 10 minutes after the first
MEK wash. (time it)
- Apply one more solvent wipe with 10 minute waiting time
(timed) between them.
You are cleaning the fabric for glue adhesion.
Glue Application: (2 thin layers
20 minutes apart)
- Apply a thin glue layer with stiff brush to both sides.
Aggressively work it into the fabric with the brush. If
it looks too thin, it is probably correct!
- Wait 20 minutes (timed) If glue still looks wet, wait
longer. Check for no tackiness with knuckle, no adhesive
should stick to your skin. Humidity control while glue is
drying is critical. Keep door closed. Don't breathe on glue
area while inspecting.
- Repeat the 2 steps above (total of 2 layers with 20 minute
open time between)
- Wait 10 minutes after second layer of glue.
- After 10 minutes, join the parts together. Start from
one edge and slowly lay the patch or accessory down onto
the glued area.
- Press out all air bubbles and wrinkles from the center
to the edges. On deflated boat rub as hard as possible with
smooth tool, e.g. the back of a large tablespoon - force
air out from between boat and patch. Careful not to scratch
the fabric.
- For davits and hard based accessories, deflate boat and
press through from other side to make sure of adhesion.
Wipe off excess glue with solvent.
- If over 10 minutes or if glue has spots of white haze
the glue has picked up moisture and you should try to "reactivate"
it. With a clean rag wet the glue surface with MEK but do
not rub the glue off (one quick swipe). Then assemble immediately.
Press hard. For accessory on an inflated boat you can rub
it down vigorously with a rag with MEK on it.
- Wait at least 48 hours before use.
- Pressure test if you want to be sure. Blow it up to full
pressure. Leave it overnight.
- Go boating!
Never fiddle around with these. Bond strength drops very
rapidly with heat or high humidity. Take your boat indoors.
Don't even think about trying to glue on the dock or near
the water or in direct sunlight. Professionals use a specially
built, climate controlled room, and still don't attempt to
work on a rainy day.
Note (when using a 2 part Hypalon glue):
The solvents in the glue must evaporate before assembly. When
ready to assemble parts, the glue must not be tacky at all
to the finger. It must not have spots of whitish glaze. If
so, you may have spread the glue too thick, not waited long
enough between coats, or a sudden drop in temperature or gust
of humid air may have occurred. Someone may have opened the
door, or you may have leaned too close and breathed on it.
Plan to stay in the room until finished.
If using small cans ( 1/4 L) mix the entire can with the
dose of accelerator. Inaccurate measurement will weaken the
glue. Once opened the accelerator cannot be kept. Do not try
to save it. The quality of your final bond depends on it.
Apply glue with a paint or glue brush with the bristles cut
short (1/2 to 3/4") so they are stiff. It must be natural
hair (i.e. OK for lacquer); bound in metal not plastic; preferably
with wooden or metal handle. Careful not to get glue on areas
of your boat besides the repair area.
Old glue must be completely removed -- solvent, sandpaper,
scraping, grinding with a Dremel tool. Glue will not stick
to old glue. Clean it off thoroughly. Be careful not to burn
or melt the fabric if using a Dremel tool. Constant motion
with the tool will prevent this problem.
If your boat has ever been protected with ArmorAll® or
another silicone or petroleum based product, you may have
great difficulty getting a bond. Wipe the repair area well
with MEK, follow the gluing instructions closely and hope
for the best.
Pinhole size leaks in most Hypalonfabric or PVC boats sometimes
may be repaired simply by use of either Seam Seal or Air Seal
liquids. You might be able to avoid a patch on the boat.
To find tiny leaks, take floor boards out, inflate boat hard.
Put some liquid detergent in a bucket of water and with rag
or big wash brush, scrub it all over boat. Keep watch for
elusive, tiny bubbles. When you find the first leak, keep
looking. You might as well fix them all at the same time!
Remember, the number one cause of slow leaks is a poorly seated
valve. Unscrew, clean. Make sure little rubber O-rings are
good. They are the cheapest repair possible.
If patching, cut patches 1 to 2 " larger than tear in
each direction and round the corners (a quarter makes a good
template for the edges). Little one inch circles pasted over
a pin hole won't last. Try to get the same fabric used by
the manufacturer for your boat. The inside and outside surface
may be different. If you can't match color, sometimes a cleverly
shaped patch in contrasting color can be made to look like
decoration instead of a Band-Aid. e.g. arrow, lightning bolt,
even a new D ring if in right spot. Professionals often put
one on each side to look like they came with the boat.
Inflate boat to apply accessories. Deflate to patch air leaks,
even if very small. Air pressure will bubble the patch before
glue sets.
BE SAFE
Do Not Smoke! Glues and solvents are flammable. No open flames
(e.g. furnace or pilot light when working in a cellar.)
Use in a well ventilated area. Fumes can be overwhelming.
A carbon filter respirator is recommended. MEK solvent smells,
but is relatively safe. It is recommended that you not use
Toluene - the factories do but it is quite dangerous.
Accelerator (small bottle) is toxic. If spilled on on your
skin WASH IMMEDIATELY with soap and water. If in your eyes,
IMMEDIATELY FLUSH WITH WATER for at least 2 minutes and consult
a physician. (Accelerator is an isocyanate based product.)
Always wear safety gear as recommended by the manufacturer
of glue, solvent, accelerator, etc.
============================================================
|
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